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Post by rocknrolla on Aug 8, 2011 21:24:58 GMT -5
At this point, I have to pull the amp out every time to get to the trim pot anyway. So it's sucki sucki no matter what. Who makes the biaspro? Ummm, thats the whole point of this thread. An access port to the bias pot.  |
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Post by camsdad on Aug 8, 2011 21:51:41 GMT -5
Ok mate, here we go, Plan A Step 1. Grab a tape measure or ruler. Step 2. Measure your weber - the section that goes into the amp (the thingy that your valve / tube plug / goes into) Step 3. Measure the distance between the top of you valve / tube and the inside of your headshell. If the measurement of Step 3 is greater than Step 2 = You have a good chance of success, Sooooooooo armed with this data.......... Now go to Plan B Step 1. Pull out a valve / tube. Step 2. Plug in the weber to where you just removed the valve / tube Step 3. Now Attempt to insert the valve / tube into weber. IF you have achieved success in step 3 without much trouble........THEN mate you should, (only if you want to remove korean lingo from your vocabulary) insert a "bias bung" !  Just tryin to help, remember, if there is a short cut for something an Aussie will usually find it (if not an Aussie, then a Kiwi) Take care men and remember, if your neighbours are fighting....Turn up your Amp ! |
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Post by rocknrolla on Aug 9, 2011 8:04:44 GMT -5
The weber bias meter can be uses with the chassis still in the head.
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Post by camsdad on Aug 9, 2011 16:25:31 GMT -5
Well that's Great news Rolla
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Post by camsdad on Aug 16, 2011 18:52:58 GMT -5
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Post by splawndude on Aug 18, 2011 23:53:40 GMT -5
I told them it was where we plug into download all the new apps for this amp ;D - They believed me of couse ;D Love it !  ROLF Neat idea for sure. Why the plug though? Couldn't you just drill the hole and fix the tolex? My probe won't allow me to really swap tubes easily so I have to pull the chassis anyway. :lurk: |
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Post by camsdad on Aug 19, 2011 2:35:31 GMT -5
Hey mate ! how ya goin ? The plug or "boat bung" ;D provides a very very cheap seal. Keeps the dust / dirt, fingers out and all that great splawnsextivity in ! Of course you can just drill a hole and leave it, but for an extra 5 bucks and 2 more minutes, mayaswell chuck it in ! Do you have the Biaspro ? Great little investment young fella ;D You have lotsa gadets, another one won't hurt |
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Post by timowens on Aug 19, 2011 14:40:27 GMT -5
Has anyone used the Amp-Head bias probe? I just ordered one of these, it also measures the plate voltage via a voltage divider so it also reads in millivolts. It looks like a slick little unit. www.amp-head.com/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=70BTW, this is a great thread, I really like this idea and would like to see some pictures of the finished project if anyone has done it. |
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Post by brokenfusion on Aug 22, 2011 20:42:19 GMT -5
do you think the extra hole will affect the tone :0
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Post by rocknrolla on Aug 23, 2011 8:59:24 GMT -5
do you think the extra hole will affect the tone :0 It may sound more "open". ;D ;D ;D It adds some "air". ;D ;D ;D A little less "woody". ;D ;D ;D Ok, I'll stop. |
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Post by maziad on Aug 24, 2011 0:54:26 GMT -5
Has anyone used the Amp-Head bias probe? I just ordered one of these, it also measures the plate voltage via a voltage divider so it also reads in millivolts. It looks like a slick little unit. www.amp-head.com/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=70BTW, this is a great thread, I really like this idea and would like to see some pictures of the finished project if anyone has done it. I have one and love it. It is simple to use and works very well. I bought it after getting my Quick Rod (used) and finding out the tubes needed replacing. I had never biased an amp before and the Amp-Head unit made it really simple. Hopefully you have as much success with your unit I as I have with mine. |
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Post by timowens on Aug 24, 2011 18:38:35 GMT -5
Thanks maziad, it just showed up today!
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Post by Ayton(e) on Oct 31, 2011 0:55:16 GMT -5
Would like to try the bung idea on my next tube swap, which will have to be soon.
Camsdad, on the off-chance you see this, how do you measure and mark where the hole should be? That's the only part I can't figure out. Oh, and do you just use a really fat drill bit?
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Post by briman on Oct 31, 2011 15:45:00 GMT -5
Yeah this is a great idea. I will be doing this for sure next week when I receive my biaspro that I purchased on ebay. It's exactly like Camsdad's. I bought the 8 pin set of wires and 9 pin because I have another amp that uses EL84's and you need 9 pin for those. Also I bought the cables for reading plate voltage for biaspro. The total was 135 bucks. Good deal. I will post pics once I've drilled a hole and plugged it. Ayton I am guessing that we will have to remove the chasis and measure from side to side and front to font where the adjustment bias screw is and then drill the bottome of the shell. I am going to use whatever drill bit fits my plug but I don't have the plug yet....... probably a half inch drill bit roughly.
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Post by camsdad on Oct 31, 2011 17:21:43 GMT -5
Hey men, Ok here we go - 1. Take the back off the amp. Then grab a nice sharp pencil. Mark along the inside bottom of the amp (where the amp base meets the timber body) - Easy ! 2. Remove the screws that hold the amp in place and remove the amp itself. - Easy ! 3. Now you can see the pencil line clearly on the frame ! Grab a tape measure and measure from the back of the amp to the centre of the adjustment screw, (write it down) then measure from one end of the amp (you pick which end - I'm right handed, so everything I measure is from the right) to the centre of the adjustment screw (write it down) - Easy 4. Ok - Now grab your tape measure again and measure / mark out out those measurements on the inside of your amp box, One from the pencil line and one from the end you measured. You will now have a intercection or cross mark where these measurements meet. - Easy ! 5. Now you need to transfer this mark to the underside of your amp box - So just hook your tape measure on the outside of your amp box and record / write down these two new measurements (I think the amp box wall thickness is about 12mm) - You can put a couple pices of paper tape / painters tape in the area, then mark the point - this will help to not rip the tolex when you drill the hole. - Easy ! 6. Measure your bung sleeve - This will tell you what size drill bit you require - The one I purchased was 19mm or 3/4in. - So I just grabbed the trusty Spade Bit - (Its a drill bit that is flat with sharp points) Grab your cordless drill and drill your hole ! - Easy 7. Install your bung and Install your amp and bias- You should never have to pull your amp out again. Note - One thing I did for Cam was - I put a small rubber cork around his screw driver - This works a treat - It Lines up his screw driver quickly and keeps it in position while you operate / turn it. - I'll dig it out and send a picture - Its a rubber bung itself with the screw driver pushed through the middle of it ! I really hope I have explained it clearly enough men Take care and keep rockin !
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Just tryin to help, remember, if there is a short cut for something an Aussie will usually find it (if not an Aussie, then a Kiwi)
ROLF
