Drop B+ switch, safe to switch while amp is running?

[briman]

Thanks Splawndude! Great info and I am a little more educated on the subject now! I can't wait to hear what Scott says. I am guessing he is going to tell me to use stanby but the part i am waiting and hoping for is the explanation of why.
The link from Tom for the manual worked for me. Maybe you need to update adobe?
I have a Peavey Bravo combo amp that I use occasionally and it has no stanby switch. Everytime i turn it off, there is a loud pop sound. It has 2 el84's and 3 12ax7's. Great little amp for the money. Sounds like a JCM 800 no joke.

[gtrjunior]

I have a Blackstar HT-Studio 20 which also doesn't have a standby switch....I don't experience any popping or detrimental behavior from that amp either.

[zerofivefour]

May 12, 2017 22:29:50 GMT -5 splawndude said:

Yeah,

I'd have defer to the experts. We are venturing into territory that I am not that familiar with.

I did find some useful links similar to what you found Tom. There is also a pretty neat 5 pager that Hartly Peavey wrote on the Standby that is pretty easy to find.

Honestly, I can't see how Standby would affect the B+ option one way or another but let's just take Scott's word for it and use it (for those that have it).

I personally am starting to use Standby less and less. Like if I'm playing and my phone rings. In the past I would have put my amp on Standby to take the call, but now I just turn the volume down.

I really can't, nor shouldn't, speak to this or the other options because A.) I don't have them, and B.) I'm not qualified LOL.

The Mid Switch I assumed was 'mid-cut' that cut some mids out of the signal.
The Old/New Switch I assumed was Scott's attempt to take the amp back to the earlier '3 pre' days that some have characterized as more aggressive. How - I have no idea.

I'm sure there are some guys on Rig-Talk that speak to all of this much more proficiently than I.

As it relates to the B+ Option I can only share with you what little information I gleaned and then provide a link I found tonight that kind of simplifies things a bit but you have to be willing to read through various articles and posts and kind of piece it together for yourself.

www.google.com/search?q=B%2B+voltages+on+guitar+amplifier&oq=B%2B+voltages+on+guitar+amplifier&aqs=chrome..69i57.9618j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Most all of hits in this link were pretty good sources of information with varying aspects on the topic. You could obviously modify the search a bit to get different types of information. Interestingly, "B+" is a left over term from the early 1900's and ham radios that used tubes and ran on batteries. Evidently, these B batteries were the size of a carton of cigarettes. These devices had tubes that both received and transmitted. Amps only transmit of course. Anyway the 'B' battery, like a 'C' or 'D' battery has a (+) and (-) terminal side and the "B+" term just carried over into PA systems and then amplifiers etc. The B+ side of the amp's power section is what carries the higher voltages. So when you engage the B+ option, it is my understanding that the voltages are dropped and thus producing a 'Brown Out' of sorts. There is also the 'A' side of the power but that is far as I can take it. If that is incorrect, then someone please speak up.

Does that make sense?

Thanks for that Splawndude.
I had a busy weekend, out of State friends visiting and then Mother's day. I wanted to reply sooner, but limited time etc...

Thanks for the elaboration re: the B+, very helpful and yes it makes sense. Thanks for links as well. I have not had time to read them, but will eventually.

Re: Amps switchable options,

I'm always curious about the "what" that is happening inside of an amp regarding the external switches. Thanks for sharing regarding that. Mid cut, yes that one I assume is a filter of sorts.  

I am very curious as to what the OLD/NEW switch does, I also have no idea what is going on inside. It however has a very significant and desireable impact on the overall nature of the signal. It absolutely sounds very aggressive as you mention in the OLD setting, more Muscular, Throaty, and Meaty, thicker.  It has this incredibly massive bark and growl to it in the OLD position.  In the New position there's  more sizzle, its a bit more crisp, a bit more sharp etc, with more present highs. Both sounds are absolutely excellent and valid. Add the OD2 to either of those settings and it screams. 

Late yestersday afternoon I spent more than an hour with the amp in the NEW postition, as well as experimenting with the OD2, with both new/old.  There are just so many valid tones in this amp.  Adding in the MID switch to the mix and its amazing how many different "flavors" of tone are available. 

Again, thanks for the reply and insight.

Cheers,

Tom

[splawndude]

Thanks guys.

Just trying to piece it all together myself.

Honestly, a lot of my answers are just googling and guesses

I'd love for an EE or amp modder/builder to come in here and help set the record straight.


PS: Search on B+ on this site. Also, there is a 2016 QR with all the options for sale over at Rig-Talk for $1,600. Just went on sale today I believe. Plexi headshell with black chicken head knobs.

[briman]

I haven't heard back from Scott yet. Last time I emailed him, he responded in less than 24 hrs. Must be busy.

[briman]

Sorry guys, never got reply from Scott! 😩