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Post by cvogue on Oct 13, 2017 17:35:06 GMT -5
I’ve been meaning to ask you about your settings with the mxr. I have the same eq and had been using it. I took it out because I was like omg what I heard but lately I’ve been contemplating trying not again. I’m just trying to tame a little high end. I’m not entirely sure but it may actually be the guitar. I’ve got a LP that I recently took out the PCB board out of. I had a local shop do it. It’s now got 500K audio taper volume pots. I’m thinking want to change to 300k linear pots. That should darken it up a touch and hopefully change the taper too. The audio taper pots are smooth but they just aren’t tapering the way id like them to. As I remember our MXR EQ settings were pretty close. I've got a pic of them somewhere, will try to post. Basically I took the base down a bit and I boosted the treble a bit, now that I think about it, it doesn't sound like what you're doing at all!! Edit: Ohhhh man, yeah the latest Gibsons and their PCBs... WTF?!?!?!? Cost cutting of some kind? |
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Post by gtrjunior on Oct 13, 2017 18:01:44 GMT -5
I’m not sure what the deal is. I would think the pcb board would be more expensive to design and manufacture?
What do I know?
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Post by cvogue on Oct 13, 2017 18:51:32 GMT -5
The board itself costs more than just regular wiring, but I think it makes production cheaper, just plug in the components and you're on your way. Much faster (and therefor cheaper in labor) I'm guessing.
I've heard that they work great for changing pickups, you can do it without soldering, but if you have to replace a pot you may as well scrap the PCB and do it all over yourself.
Edit: Of course pickup changes are easy... IF you use Gibson pickups! Otherwise I think you may be in a world of hurt if you want to put someone else's pickups in there...
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Post by gtrjunior on Oct 13, 2017 21:02:57 GMT -5
The board itself costs more than just regular wiring, but I think it makes production cheaper, just plug in the components and you're on your way. Much faster (and therefor cheaper in labor) I'm guessing. I've heard that they work great for changing pickups, you can do it without soldering, but if you have to replace a pot you may as well scrap the PCB and do it all over yourself. Edit: Of course pickup changes are easy... IF you use Gibson pickups! Otherwise I think you may be in a world of hurt if you want to put someone else's pickups in there... Exactly...that’s what happened. I wanted to put the Dimarzio’s in and it was a complete sh*t show.... |
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Post by cvogue on Oct 14, 2017 11:38:33 GMT -5
The board itself costs more than just regular wiring, but I think it makes production cheaper, just plug in the components and you're on your way. Much faster (and therefor cheaper in labor) I'm guessing. I've heard that they work great for changing pickups, you can do it without soldering, but if you have to replace a pot you may as well scrap the PCB and do it all over yourself. Edit: Of course pickup changes are easy... IF you use Gibson pickups! Otherwise I think you may be in a world of hurt if you want to put someone else's pickups in there... Exactly...that’s what happened. I wanted to put the Dimarzio’s in and it was a complete sh*t show.... Ahh, yuck. Yeah after doing a bit of research that's why people rant against the PCBs. For one they could fail, but if you want to do anything to your guitar that doesn't make Gibson money it's a royal pain in the ass. Henry strikes again.... |
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tjdjr1
Junior Member
Posts: 70 
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Post by tjdjr1 on Oct 15, 2017 16:40:14 GMT -5
I have rolled through a fair number of pre amp tubes and have found a combo I like so far, but while I was tinkering I checked the bias and it was at 13mA, I adjusted up to 24mA and could not get any higher. I tapped the tubes to see if any thumped back and noticed the last tube on the right was touchable and the other 3 were pretty hot. Is this a sign of a tube going bad ?
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Post by gtrjunior on Oct 15, 2017 16:58:26 GMT -5
Your power tubes, when at full operating temp should be way too hot to touch. Preamp tubes will get hot but you can still fairly safely touch them.
In my experience, the only signs a tube is on its way out is I hear popping noises.
Are your power tubes the original ones Scott shipped with the amp?
24Ma is still a cold bias. Iirc, mine are biased at 34Ma.
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tjdjr1
Junior Member
Posts: 70
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Post by tjdjr1 on Oct 15, 2017 17:06:31 GMT -5
Your power tubes, when at full operating temp should be way too hot to touch. Preamp tubes will get hot but you can still fairly safely touch them. In my experience, the only signs a tube is on its way out is I hear popping noises. Are your power tubes the original ones Scott shipped with the amp? 24Ma is still a cold bias. Iirc, mine are biased at 34Ma. No the tubes in it are JJ EL34 II's I bought the amp used. I turned the bias several times to get to the 24mA and it just won't go any higher, then I felt the last tube on the Right and I could hold my hand on it even though the glow of it was the same as the others, the other three were very hot. |
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Post by gtrjunior on Oct 15, 2017 17:12:27 GMT -5
When you get a New amp from Scott the power tubes have a numbering system on them. It’s his way of matching tubes and finding a set that will bias up correctly in THAT particular amp.
It’s similar to how Groove Tubes has their rating system. I think the set you bought just isn’t the right bias range for that amp. I think I would email Scott with the serial # and see if he has on file what he originally put in your amp or if you still have the old tubes you took out look to see what number is on the tube. For instance, my amp has #40 tubes. I really think your best bet is to get a set specifically for that amp.
A while back I was thinking about swapping power tubes too (I had broken one) but wasn’t sure how to figure out what tubes would bias correctly. I ended up just reordering from Scott.
If you go into the search function here in the forum there’s a bit of discussion on this....it confuses the hell out of me so I went with what I knew would work.
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tjdjr1
Junior Member
Posts: 70
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Post by tjdjr1 on Oct 15, 2017 17:20:21 GMT -5
These tubes that the amp came with are from tube depot and are rated at the bottoms the mA marked on them are 33,33,33,34 and tube depot said this is a tightly matched quad. I don't have the originals and will contact Scott to hear what he has to say. Just with the little adjustment I made the amp is coming more alive. thanks
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Post by gtrjunior on Oct 15, 2017 17:26:55 GMT -5
I’m sure the tube depot # don’t correlate with Scott’s numbers though. The Tube Depot #’s aren’t an mA reading, I don’t believe. It’s their matching system.
I like Tube depot a lot though. I just ordered from them today.
Let me know what Scott says. I’m curious.
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tjdjr1
Junior Member
Posts: 70
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Post by tjdjr1 on Oct 16, 2017 6:55:33 GMT -5
I emailed Scott last pm and waiting for a response, so I ordered some EL34EH's just in case and have them coming. Reading different posts here they seem okay and bias correctly for users. I am curious too as what Scott has to say..
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Post by gtrjunior on Oct 16, 2017 8:21:52 GMT -5
Personally I would have waited to hear from Scott before ordering but...that’s me. Hopefully they work for you.
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tjdjr1
Junior Member
Posts: 70
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Post by tjdjr1 on Oct 16, 2017 8:42:13 GMT -5
Had time this am before work and I read plate voltage all 4 power tube slots between 490 and 500. The tube I thought was bad is fine in another slot, so ya maybe I didn't need tubes, but I can use them in my 2203 if not in the Splawn, I do not know how old the ones are in there. The problem I found that puzzles me is the bias at the 4 tubes I have from L to R facing the back 29.0, 24.3, 24.1, and O.0, nothing on the last tube. What are your thoughts on this ?
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Post by gtrjunior on Oct 16, 2017 8:57:54 GMT -5
Hmmm....strange?
The 2 outer tubes work together and the 2 inner work together in a push/pull amp like these. TBH, I’m a bit baffled. That might be something to run by Scott...
Scott recommends that in 50W mode that you pull the 2 inner tubes (I think the inner ones). Maybe a possible bad socket or soldering on the socket? I’m stumped on this.
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